The Matterhorn is one of the most difficult classic climbs in the Alps. The ascent and descent are on rock and ice only, and require excellent physical condition, as well as experience in rock climbing with and without crampons. Since the normal route via the Hörnliridge is very difficult to find, we advise even experienced mountaineers to book a mountain guide who is familiar with the Matterhorn.For safety reasons the guide only takes one client. We advise that start your preparation for the ascent of the Matterhorn early. We suggest a minumim stay in Zermatt of 7 to 10 days. This is so that you can train in similar terrain and get acclimatised to the altitude, and so that you have enough reserve days, The best time for climbing the Matterhorn is from the beginning of July until mid-September. The feasability of the actual climb is dependant on the current condition on the mountain and on the weather. The guide meets his client the evening before the climb at the Matterhorn hut. After a short night, the climb begins in the darkness early next morning. The ascent takes approx. 4-5 hours whilst the descent takes about the same time.
Excellent physical condition is necessary for climbing the Matterhorn (9-10 hours endurance performance), as well as very good acclimatisation. You can enhance your training by intensive exercise within in the Zermatt area, climbing up 1000-1500 metres altitude daily, by covering 500 metres altitude per hour. You must already be in very good physical condition before you arrive in Zermatt, and also be experienced in rock climbing (level 4), with and without crampons, for both the ascent and descent.
Suggested training climbs
- Rimpfischhorn 4199 m (ideal training tour in rock and ice, with an overnight stay in either Täschhut or Fluhalphut)
Techinical training climbs
- Pollux 4091 m, day tour in rock and ice
- Half Traverse of Breithorn 4165 m, day tour in rock and ice
- Riffelhorn 2928 m, ideal training for rock climbing.
Agency fee, guiding by mountain guide, a certificate and a souvenir medal if the climb is successful.
- Ticket Zermatt-Schwarzsee return CHF 48.-
- Half board at the hut for the client and the mountain guide CHF 155.-
(Total cost of the climb CHF 1380.-)
Size of group
1 person per guide
Terms and conditions
You can find our terms of cancellation in our General Terms of Business statement. In case of an early termination of the climb due to deterioration of the weather, you will be entitled to a partial refund (amount depending on the duration of the climb). In case of an early termination due to unsufficient physical requirements of the client, no refund will be given.
Crampons, climbing harness and helmet (which can be rented in a sports shop), climbing boots with a profiled rubber sole a suitable for use with crampons, gloves, warm hat, headtorch, sunglasses, high factor sunscreen, a small packed lunch (refreshments: high-energy food such as chocolate, dried fruit, glucose, etc.), thermos flask (warm tea is available in the hut) or water bottle (approx 1l capacity)